A breathtaking view of La Laguna
Whew! It has been a while. Lately, I’ve been focusing my blogging time on Cuchara Tenedor, my new food blog.
Well, going back, this post will be about my family’s two trips around Laguna. We haven’t really completed the so-called “Viaje del Sol” and neither did we conform to the tour’s package but we tried our very best to retrace the different notable towns found around the once-majestic Laguna de Bay.
In our two trips, we visited Morong (Rizal), Calamba, San Pablo, Pililia (Rizal), Pakil and Paete. The most memorable, of course, were none other than Paete and Pakil.
What we saw there were things we haven’t seen in years: the genteel provincial life where the church, plaza and market were the main hubs of commerce, encounter and culture.
The churches of Pakil and Paete were remarkable. Rich in artistic history, we marveled in the two churches flamboyant wood carvings and interesting, old paintings.
I am unsure if the towns in Laguna de Bay utilize their respective cultural heritage to their fullest potential. They don’t seem to as compared to towns like Vigan and Taal. Sayang.
I did enjoy this stop in San Pablo though called Sulyap. There were two houses in the compound and a large, rather, imposing modern structure which houses a museum. It’s a very interesting, charming place. The museum is full of knick knacks and the place is teeming with Torres wine barrels because apparently the owners were the former importers of Torres wines in the country.
Kulawo na puso ng saging. Their best seller
Pako salad with vinegar and red eggs
They also served good and reasonably-priced food. My favorite was the kulawo na puso ng saging. Really, really good: smoky and flavorful. Their pako salad was what I expected and liked: refreshing, light and salty.
I won’t write as much because the photos will speak louder. Enjoy your summer with a quick overnight tour of Laguna de Bay!
It starts here: San Geronimo Church, Morong Rizal. From the church’s doorsteps, you have what could have been a majestic view of the lake.
The road to Laguna from Rizal
We ate at this palaisdaan type of restaurant (abundant in this area) in Pililia, Rizal
Now this is Tagalog: Pancit Habhab
The main retablo of the San Pedro de Alcantara (Pakil Church) enshrines the miraculous image of Nuestra Senora de los Dolores de Turumba
Venerating the Holy Cross of Pakil
High Philippine Baroque expressed splendidly in these wood carvings of a side retablo of the Sagrado Corazon
Side altar for Our Lady
Some commenters say that the church displays Philippine “rococo style”. However, in reality, we never really achieved Rococo here
José Luciano Dans’ Judicum Finale over the confessional. What a good reminder!
Pakil Church used to be visita of nearby Paete. Franciscan Fray Pedro Bautista (who is now actually a canonized saint), designated the location of the church and convento.
Idylic view: the church of Paete, a town of artists, sitting at the foot of mountains
Santiago Apostol Matamoros guards the facade of this church while numerous artworks of proud sons of Paete adorn the church
José Luciano Dans, a son of Paete, painted this iconic native San Cristobal at the church narthex
Cielo, Tierra y Infierno by Dans
Stone bas relief adorn the exterior of Paete Church
The charm of Solomonic pillars carved on stone
Fooling around with my peeps hahaha
The Paete santero and his work
An elderly woman making TAKA, those ubiquitous red (apparently multi-colored) papier mache horses from Paete
My predilection for santos finds solace in Paete
Sadly, poor zoning have obstructed vistas of the lake
Passing through Pagsanghan’s welcome arch
My beautiful Mama at Ugu Bigyan’s home and work space
Some of Ugu Bigyan’s pottery artworks
Sulyap Gallery Cafe and Restaurant’s 1907 Restaurant and Casa Obando
An altar of antique santos and vessels in the restaurant
View of ventanas upstairs